The best way ending a long trip in Central America is to get yourself on to the islands of San Blas (Guna Yala). The images tells it all, almost – is that a starfish in the Caribbean Sea looks more beautiful than a plastic trash. The lack of proper waste management system in the area was conspicuous, just so you get the point that all the scenes aren’t this beautiful.
Tourism in the area is quite new and the local indigenous Guna people are basically running all the services for tourists on the coast and the islands. The region is autonomous, so Guna people have their own laws and everything; one of the laws is that only Guna may own land in Guna Yala. Their culture and traditions have remained mostly unchanged through years mainly because they have their autonomy and the society is fully endogamic.
We visited a Guna town on the island named Gardi Sugdub, the small island close to Puerto Carti. The population on the island is over 1000 and basically the whole island is like a one big apartment from edge to edge. At the time we visited the town Guna people had their big celebration as two girls had reached the age they become women in Guna society. The society is also matriarchal which was clearly visible during our visit. On the town island at 8 am we were first directed in a museum as an audience for our town guide. Clearly late, about 15–20 mins later a totally intoxicated little man enters the museum and starts his performance. His name was Davis and he was one of the town’s medicine men. Davis started the show by teaching us a bit of Guna traditions and history. But he was a bit out of control and I was sitting alerted in the front row face to face with this guy waiting a slap to my face or whatever. The guy was so drunk. The show took about half an hour and after the show the tourist fee $3 was collected by Davis’ wife; before this Davis was laughing – actually he laughed through the whole show – and informed us if paid to him he’ll drink the money right away. What a start for the visit.
As we walked around the town it came clear that all men were totally wasted – don’t know if this was only because of the party – and all women seemed to be sober with their poker face, they just didn’t smile even a bit. Men did thou.
The visit to San Blas, Guna Yala was great but it left some conflicting thoughts in mind. The place is without a doubt very beautiful and original and worth visiting but still I cannot see myself going there again al least for awhile.
Polar Night Escape 